Spain and Portugal 2023

 It’s quite cool until the sun rises over the mountains but we soon warm up as we head off on a circular route. We start off through beech woods glorious in the early autumn colours. Then through pastures filled with grazing cows. The sound of the cow bells echoing in the mountains is very atmospheric. The path is east to follow at first but soon becomes indiscreet and we have to rely on the map and amazing kamoot app that tells us exactly where we are and where we should be! The views are breathtaking. So different from our last visit here 32.5 years ago when it rained and snowed! We picnic at the highest point of our route before traversing and seeing 4 Chamois deer bounding across the juniper and myrtle bushes. Then we head downwards through a river valley back to the campsite. A good 5+ hours of walking and we’re pleased to relax a bit by the van. The campsite is still pretty empty much to our delight. We’re planning to eat in the campsite restaurant tonight. It looks a bit lik...

 Up at 7:30 and it’s still dark for another hour! We pack up and head off out of Salamanca soon on empty  roads which cross the flat somewhat arid plain heading north.  After nearly 3 hours driving we stop for lunch in the foothills of the Picos, overlooking a large slightly empty reservoir.  Then on along twisting roads up into the mountains where we reach our campsite El Cares which is in a setting below high peaks. Our pitch has superb mountain views. We are at 1200 metres so it cools down in the evening. Maybe we’ll need blankets tonight. Owls hoot nearby. Chicken curry from M&S for supper. 

 It’s Portuguese Independence Day today and a public holiday. Luckily it doesn’t affect us much as we are heading to Spain. We say our farewells to the manic Elsa and drive out of the mountains north east to Spain. More empty toll roads and the journey is easy. We lose an hour as we cross the border do arrive at our campsite just outside Salamanca just before 1pm. It’s a pleasant site near the river and we find a spot pretty quickly as we’re only here one night. A quick turnaround and we’re cycling along the river in to the city. We get a bit lost but eventually arrive at the Roman Bridge. What an incredible city. Two massive sandstone Cathedrals one old and one newer (Gothic) and their towers dominate the landscape. We head first for lunch at a place recommended in the guide book. We’re expecting tapas but it’s not really. Delicious scallops freshly grilled in their shells, grilled squid and tender cod with the odd pig trotter! An ice cream as we wander the streets afterwards. We ...

 Breakfast at 8:30 and Elsa lets us make packed lunch for our trek. We leave at 09:30 and it’s sunny but nice and fresh as we are at 800m. Soon we are climbing steadily through sweet chestnut and pine woods. For some reason there are a huge number of flies.  After nearly 2 hours of climbing we get to the start of another route, PR1 which goes through some dramatic scenery and involves steep ascents and descents. After an hour we are at the main waterfall. We have our picnic lunch on great slate slabs and then dip in the icy pool beneath the falls.  Then even more climbing to get to the summit of PR2 which is like a moonscape with rounded pink granite boulders. Then the long descent to Manteigas which we can see worryingly far below.  Eventually we hobble into town and have a celebratory cold beer on the balcony.  We eat at another recommended eatery. Very local, no English translations so we’re not quite sure what we’ve ordered! We get a hearty stew with pork, s...