Thursday 5 October

 It’s Portuguese Independence Day today and a public holiday. Luckily it doesn’t affect us much as we are heading to Spain. We say our farewells to the manic Elsa and drive out of the mountains north east to Spain. More empty toll roads and the journey is easy. We lose an hour as we cross the border do arrive at our campsite just outside Salamanca just before 1pm. It’s a pleasant site near the river and we find a spot pretty quickly as we’re only here one night. A quick turnaround and we’re cycling along the river in to the city. We get a bit lost but eventually arrive at the Roman Bridge. What an incredible city. Two massive sandstone Cathedrals one old and one newer (Gothic) and their towers dominate the landscape. We head first for lunch at a place recommended in the guide book. We’re expecting tapas but it’s not really. Delicious scallops freshly grilled in their shells, grilled squid and tender cod with the odd pig trotter! An ice cream as we wander the streets afterwards. We then tour both Cathedrals: both magnificent, and then climb the Jeronimus tower for spectacular views of the city. We then do a tour of the Art Nouveau Museum with exquisite sculptures, jewellery and stained glass. No photos allowed. We admire the entrance ti the University and spot the frog hidden in the elaborate facade. We sit with a drink in the magnificent Plaza Mayer and watch the world pass by in this vibrant and colourful city. We buy some salami rolls and local pie for supper and cycle home cautiously in the evolving darkness. We’ll done Simon for bringing bike lights. Supper outside the van. This unexpected heat wave is incredible. We’re off to the Picos tomorrow to make the most of it.