Thursday 14 September

 We wake quite late as the sun only rises at 8.20am but the sky is blue and the forecast is good. After breakfast we walk the 2.5km into the old town of Santiago de Compostela and are immediately overwhelmed by the architecture, the size of the gothic buildings and the number of people. Many weary looking pilgrims laden with rucksacks and carrying sticks with gourds and scallop shells. There is a certain Eau de Pilgrim we think! The place is also filled with police. Even snipers from the balconies. We gather Politicians are in the posh Parador! We queue with the faithful and file through the crypt where St James is buried and pass the back of his statue in the gold adorned high altar. Many stop to kiss or hug, we don’t. We potter the ancient streets, do the rest of the Cathedral with the enormous incense burner, have a coffee on the street and then lunch in Nave 5 of Abastos indoor market  it’s humming and we enjoy padron peppers, clams and mussels. Then a tour of the wonderful Portico of the Gloria recently restored and totally amazing  I am smug that I booked tickets yesterday. Another potter and refreshment befor our tour of the tower and roof. All in Spanish we don’t understand a word but it is incredible to walk on the granite slabs that line the roof of the Cathedral and to admire the views. Rather a hot walk home and we cool off in the pool before bread and cheese for supper. What an amazing day.