Wednesday 20 September

 We’re up early to get the 8.49 bus towards Porto. It is a slow and circuitous route and it seems not very scenic. It takes us to the outskirts where we get the metro (more like a tram really) into the centre. We’re quite proud to have mastered the ticket system. We start at the Torre dos Clerigos which involves more spiral staircases although not as narrow as yesterday’s. We get our bearings and admire the rooftops and the River Douro below. We walk on ceramic mosaic pavements and admire the architecture and colourful Azulejos tiles on some of the houses. Coffee and Pastel de Nata of course. Sao Bento Station is a high point with thousands of hand painted tiles. The Gothic Church is filled with gold, total bling! We eat at an authentically Portuguese restaurant recommended by Michael’s cousin Rachel. We eat pork cheek as a change from fish. Pudding is Pao de Lo Ovar, a sort of undercooked sponge cake. Next we visit Livraria Lello, a rather beautiful 1906 neo gothic building which claims to be the most beautiful bookshop in the world. It is attractive but packed and we had to pay 8 euros to go in! We’re feeling pretty weary now so head to Mercado Bolhau a beautiful market space that has been redeveloped and only opened a year ago. We buy bread and cheese and some fruit and then head home on a very busy metro and crammed local bus. We are certainly getting a local Portuguese experience!